MustangHowTo PMP Roadster Body Kit

Always ensure the vehicle you are working under is supported securely with jack stands, wear appropriate clothing and safety goggles. Be weary of your clothing and the proximity to moving parts. If you are uncomfortable about attempting an installation, DON'T......Seek a qualified service person or facility to help with your installation. This articles contained in this site are in addition to and enhancement of existing OEM specified procedures and practices. With regard to specifications and procedures, the OEM manual, procedure or practice shall dictate and govern.

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Pure Mustang Performance Roadster Body Kit

This is a supplemental article only to the instruction manual supplied by PMP. Their instructions must be followed 100%. You do not need to add any steps, the kit is 100% bolt on.

If you have any question or are missing any pieces, call PMP at 727-530-5958. email at sales@puremustangperformance.com

PMP provides excellent response time and good, positive solutions. If at any time you require assistance or have a question, don't hesitate to contact PMP directly. We would like to thank PMP for allowing us this opportunity to work with them. Let's get started.

The car must be sitting on level ground, sitting on the 4 wheels of the car and NOT be supported by jacks or on a lift. This will create a false alignment when complete. The installation of the Pure Mustang Performance Roadster Body Kit requires the removal of the following major component of the car before install of the new body parts. We are going to be removing the rear bumper, headlights, the front bumper and eventually the stock side skirting.

Headlights
First let's get the headlights out and safety out of the way. There are two black tabs that are situated at the back of the headlight assembly with a hole in them. These have a short segment, then are bent at 90 degrees and disappear down behind the headlight assembly. These are locking slides. Grab
the tab with a pair of pliers and lift straight up from the headlight assembly.

The slide is about 6" long and mates with a slot in the back of the headlights. When these are in place, the trap the headlight in position, when removed the headlight can be moved straight forward. There is a small pin near the fender on the headlight assembly that will be held in place with a little friction. A little pressure will release the pin from it's hole and the headlight assembly will be free to move forward. Remove the two wiring harness plugs, one from the headlight and one from the side marker or signal light. Be careful not to break the locking tabs, slow relieve the pressure of the locking tabs on the plugs and they will start to unplug with a little back and forth movement towards the back of the car.

With these two plugs removed from the headlight assembly, you can now safely remove the assembly and store well away from your work area. Repeat this same procedure for the other side of the car and we will be prepared to start on the grill and then the front bumper.

Grill
The grill in our subject car is an aftermarket Billet grill and it will be easier that if you have a stock grill in place. If you have a stock grill, read our Grill Install Article. This will take you through what is required to remove the stock grill. The aftermarket grill is held in place by two bolt. Remove these two bolts and the grill can be lifted out of the two alignment holes near the base of the grill.

Front Bumper
The bumper will require a little bit more work and some jockeying around under the car. There are several attachment methods that combine to hold the bumper securely in place. There are flared screw/nuts combos, body panel retainer pins, Philips machine screws and 4 bolt/nuts that mount the bumper. First thing to do is to unplug the driving lights if you car is equipped with them. Similar to the headlight wiring plugs, work the plugs loose and leave hanging down from the car, they will be out of the way and not in any danger.

We will go through the steps to free one side completely and you can mirror those steps for the other side. There is a machine screw that points forward near the base of the fender. Turn the wheel slightly so that you have access for a Philips screw driver. Remove this screw, it goes through the sheet metal of the fender and into the plastic fender well covering. Get a container for all the hardware, we don't want to loose anything.

Looking underneath the car, there is a black wind deflector that is mounted directly below the radiator. At each of this deflector is a push pin tab that goes through the urethane bumper into the frame of the car. Remove this by pulling the center pin out, but not completely. This will relieve the outward force of the locking tabs that restrain the pushpin assembly. With the pin in the outward position, use a body panel removal tool to remove the pushpin retainer.

What we are left with is two nuts on each side that are up where the bumper meet the fender, right near the wheel opening. These are a little difficult to get at and if you remove one of the push pin retainers from the plastic fender liner, it will be more flexible to move around and out of the way. You will need a 7/16" socket and small ratchet, reaching up between the bumper and the fender well liner. There are 2 nuts that are securing two studs that are mounted to the bumper.

Once these are removed, you can flex the bumper out, away from the fender and free the studs from their respective mating holes at the base of the fender. The only screw left on the one side is at the top of the grill and headlight opening. This is a plastic screw/flare nut retainer. Remove the screw then remove the flare nut itself.

The one side is now free, repeat your steps on the opposite side and we will be ready to remove the bumper. The bumper is urethane and is extremely flexible when all of the fasteners are removed. Be very careful when holding it to provide enough support
so as not to damage the bumper when moving it around. Remove it to a separate location well away from the work area.

Impact Bumper Removal
Head lights and bumpers are removed, now on to the impact bumpers and getting ready for the Roadster front bumper. The new bumper does not have the room to allow for the foam impact bumper to remain in place. Remove the foam bumper by removing the 2 mounting bolt. The bumper had 2 foam extrusions that help to keep it in place for installation and removal. Lift the foam bumper up to remove it from the metal crash bumper.

The metal crash bumper needs to removed and replaced with the one supplied with your body kit. Remove the 4 mounting bolts and set the bumper aside. The header frame work that holds the grill and headlights in place needs removal. With these parts removed and out of the way, the new Roadster crash bumper can be installed with the flat plate to the top and on the upper mounting points. The new Roadster bumper will sit on this surface.

There are 2 brackets that held the header framework in place. These need to be removed and reversed. Once the brackets have been reversed, mount the 2 aluminum brackets supplied that will attach to the Roadster bumper.

The stock fender mounting brackets need to be reused on the Roadster bumper. Drill the rivets out and remove the brackets from the bumper. Transfer these brackets to the Roadster bumper with large faced rivets or small bolts and nylon locking nuts. The mating holes on the fenders can be slotted somewhat to help in lining up the fender lines with the Roadster bumper. Don't do this unless you have during the mock-up and fitment check.

Mount the 2 remaining brackets supplied to the mounting bosses on the back side of the Roadster bumper, just outside of the headlight access holes. These will allow for the bumper to be bolted to the fender in the old headlight area. The brackets are not counter-sunk to allow for a good seat of the mounting screws supplied. Counter-sink these holes to ensure a good contact patch between the screw and the brackets. You might want to put a drop of blue Loctight Threadlocker. This is medium strength threadlocker and will allow for removal if necessary but will prevent loosening due to vibration.

Set the Roadster bumper in place sitting on the Roadster crash bumper. Fit the brackets in the middle to the outside of the grill opening. Lift one of the fender side locations and put the studs into their respective hole locations. Do the same to the other side. You can reach each of these stud locations by reaching through the headlight holes. Thumb tighten the nuts on the studs to ensure the bumper is going to stay in place. Replace 2 of the header framework bolts into the new brackets just behind the headlight location and tighten just enough to allow some movement and alignment. Repeat the same for the opposite side.

There will be 2 holes required on the sides of the grill opening that can be drilled now. close the hood and get a general alignment. Locate the best location for the 2 side holes so that there can still be some adjustment up or down as necessary. Some trimming or sanding may be required to get a good fit along all the body lines that now mate with the Roadster bumper. If you do require any trimming, make sure you do this in stages. It is always easy to remove, but there is not easy way to replace if you have removed too much.

Once you are happy with your fit, remove the bumper and mount the signal lights in to their location. Cut a 1 1/4 long by 1" piece of aluminum to secure the signal light with the center screw. You can do this with a large washer but an aluminum piece is going to be more positive. Put the signal in place with the 2 rear screws, then mark the location for the hole on the aluminum to drill for the 3rd screw. Drill the hole a little oversize so that you have a little bit of forgiveness on the mounting. When you are happy with the location, remove and put a drop of Loctight on all of these mounting screws to prevent loosening by vibration. Repeat for the opposite side and the signal are ready to go. Your existing bulb sockets can be reused for the new signal lights. Transfer the clear lights from the new sockets to your old ones.

Wiring for the headlights will require cutting off the old light sockets and splicing in a new connector. We used a couple of Trailer Connector Kits from NAPA. If you use a 4 wire connector, just ignore one of the wires. The black center wire on the stock socket plug is the ground wire. Slice that by soldering the black wire from the connector to the wiring harness. Turn your lights on and determine with a test light which wire is your low beam and which is your high beam. Twist the 2 leads to the new HID headlights and determine which is high and low. Once you have this figured, solder those wires and wrap securely with electricians tape. This will provide a weather prove connector and allow removal of the HID lights if necessary.

The driving lights will need to be spliced into the existing GT harness as well. Strip back the insulation from the plug about 4 inches and snip the plug off. Leave about 2 inches of wire on the plug incase you ever need to reuse them. The new driving lights have a 2 wire system and it won't matter how the wires get connected. You can test them first to make sue they work by twisting them together. Make sure they don't touch and turn the driving lights on.