MustangHowTo PMP Roadster Body Kit (Rear Bumper)

Always ensure the vehicle you are working under is supported securely with jack stands, wear appropriate clothing and safety goggles. Be weary of your clothing and the proximity to moving parts. If you are uncomfortable about attempting an installation, DON'T......Seek a qualified service person or facility to help with your installation. This articles contained in this site are in addition to and enhancement of existing OEM specified procedures and practices. With regard to specifications and procedures, the OEM manual, procedure or practice shall dictate and govern.

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Pure Mustang Performance Roadster Body Kit

This is a supplemental article only to the instruction manual supplied by PMP. Their instructions must be followed 100%. You do not need to add any steps, the kit is 100% bolt on.

If you have any question or are missing any pieces, call PMP at 727-530-5958. email at sales@puremustangperformance.com

PMP provides excellent response time and good, positive solutions. If at any time you require assistance or have a question, don't hesitate to contact PMP directly. We would like to thank PMP for allowing us this opportunity to work with them. Let's get started.

The car must be sitting on level ground, sitting on the 4 wheels of the car and NOT be supported by jacks or on a lift. The installation of the Pure Mustang Performance Roadster Body Kit requires the removal of the following major component of the car before install of the new body parts. We are going to be removing the rear bumper, headlights, the front bumper and eventually the stock side skirting. Some trimming and fitting will be required so it is essential to do a mock up first before any paint goes on.

Rear Bumper Removal
The rear bumper is secured to the body or the car with 2 screws in each fender well are, 2 nuts along each side and 3 across the top section near the trunk latch and several plastic retainer pins. Before we are able to get at any of the fasteners that secure the bumper to the car, you will need to remove some of the interior panels of the trunk liner.

The rear trunk panel that goes from tail light to tail light needs to be removed. Unscrew the 2 cargo net hooks and pull the 4 panel retainers from the skid panel that surround the trunk latch.

Once the retainers have been removed, you can remove the rear panel, be careful that you don't fold in and break the panel. It is flimsy in the middle area. Next, we have to be able to get behind the side panel. There is one plastic retainer that is on the underside of the upper area. It will either unscrew, or you can pop it off. This will free the panel, it will only be held in place by it's shape and the remaining body panels in the trunk area. You will be able to move it far enough to get at the nuts along the side of the fender by flexing it, but be careful not to kink or break the material.

Remove the 4 screws in the fender well area at the rear side of the drive wheels. There will be 2 on each side. Place them in a container of fasteners for the rear bumper and set them in the trunk where you won't loose them. From the underside of the truck, there are 3 plastic retainer pins, remove these with your upholstery tool. You will probably want to use new ones so either save them or toss them. It all depends of the shape of them after removal.

Inside the trunk, flex one side of the panel to provide you access to the fender area behind the wheels. You will see 2 nuts protruding through the fender. Remove these 2 nuts and place in your container. Go to the opposite side of the trunk area and do the same. If you are on the tank filler side, it will be a little bit more difficult to get at the one closest to the wheel because of the tubing, but can easily be done. Remove these and place in your container.

There are 3 remaining nuts that retain the rear bumper to the car. Remove these with a deep socket and extension and place in your container.

The bumper is now free to be removed. There is a drain tube that goes from the filler to a fitting at the lower section of the fender. Pull this tube free and save the fitting to be used on the Roadster bumper. Flex one side first to remove the studs from the fender holes, then do the same to the opposite side.

The bumper should be able to swing up and down as it hangs by the 3 remaining studs through the trunk. Carefully lift up slightly from the center of the rear bumper and work it backwards. The bumper is urethane and is extremely flexible when all of the fasteners are removed. Be very careful when holding it to provide enough support so as not to damage the bumper when moving it around. Remove it to a separate location well away from the work area.

With the back bumper removed, the foam impact bumper will be exposed. A notch in the bumper must be made to accommodate the recessed license plate alcove. Mark the area to be cut with masking tape. Line up the tape perpendicular to the car along one of the molding seams that is visible in the foam. Vertical tape locations should be 15" either side of center. Use and appropriate saw to cut the phone, a hack saw will not work for very long as it will start to bind. We used a sheet rock or dry wall saw and it seemed to work fine. Cut straight and don't remove more than you have too. Toss the scrap piece in the trash.

Brackets from the stock bumper need to be removed and transferred to the Roadster bumper. Drill the existing rivets and remove the brackets. The bracket studs will fit into the tabs on the Roadster bumper. Re-rivet with large faced rivets or a small bolts with a Nylok nut.

The frame bar at the top of the stock bumper can be removed for re-use on the Roadster bumper. With the bumper lying on it's top, line up the shape of the tubing with the shape of the molded bumper. Ensure that there is enough tab material to hold the tubing in your current alignment before you drill. Drill the 3 holes required and push the mounting studs through the tabs.

The side reflectors from the stock bumper will be re-used on the Roadster bumper. Remove the 2 retaining nuts and stow with the other fasteners. There is an area of material that needs to be removed similar to the stock bumper near the rear of the reflector to allow it to seat properly. Line up the reflector studs and check to see if the dimples in the mold are located properly. Drill the holes for the studs and check the fitment of the reflector. Remove enough material to allow the reflector to fit just as it did in the stock bumper. Replace the 2 nuts and perform the same procedure for the opposite side.

The stock license plate light modules need to be transferred to the Roadster bumper. Remove the mounting screws and pull the socket free from the trunk lid far enough to unhook the socket. Once both light modules are free, strip the wire sheath back so that you can trace the wiring. You will need to slice in to the harness again with some new wiring because you are rerouting the wires outside the trunk instead of inside. About 4 feet of trailer wiring from your local auto store will work fine. Reconnect the wiring and ensure the lights work with the parking lights on.

There are some scribe marks on the Roadster bumper to help locate the module bases. Use some masking tape and locate the center of the alcove. Match the distance right to left and then make sure that the lights are far enough from the outside of the bumper to hide them as much as possible. Mark the locations of the centers and drill a correctly sized hole for the module. Seat the module in the hole and mark the location for the mounting screws. There is a foam gasket to help seal the trunk lid. This new location does not have to be seal that way and removal of this gasket will allow the module to fit tight against the bumper.

Turn your stock bumper on it's top and line it up with the new Roadster bumper. Mark the location of the 2 screw holes required to retain the bumper just behind the rear wheel. Use some masking tape and and a pencil. Remember, measure twice and drill once. If you are unsure, you can fit the bumper and check the marking before you drill.

The side reflectors from the stock bumper need to be transferred to the Roadster bumper as well. Remove the speed nuts from the reflector being careful not to break the studs. Align the reflector with the dimples in the Roadster bumper to verify their location. Drill the front hole first, then check the alignment for the rear stud. There is an area of material that needs to be removed from the Roadster bumper to match the stock one. A Dremel tool works best, only removing a little at a time until a perfect fit. This allows the reflector to seat perfectly.

You can now fit the bumper to the car similar to removal. Place the bumper in location by holding it in the center and fit the 3 center studs into location. Put a couple of nuts on loosely only to make sure it doesn't fall off. Go to one side and flex the bumper out and lift up to align the fender mounting studs. Press the outside of the bumper in so the studs go through the holes. They will stay there, do the same to the opposite side. Check for proper fitment and alignment over the exhaust tips and check your marking for the screw holes. If everything looks good and you haven't drilled yet, remove and drill the screw holes. If you already had drilled, then put all the nuts on and align the Roadster bumper the the fender body lines and tighten everything up. Stand back and check your alignment. If all looks good, you can remove it from the car again, remove the side reflectors and store all the fasteners, the rear bumper is ready for paint.