Tubular K-Member (Cont'd)
We must now direct our attention to the removal of the cross member stiffener that is on the convertibles. Removing this piece requires finding all the locations for the attachment points. It is attached to the OEM K-member in 4 locations and to the uni-body frame just behind the wheels.
Start by finding the bolts on the uni-body frame locations. A couple of them will be hidden behind the plastic splash guards. Loose the 2 middle bolts in the K-member and remove completely the front 4 bolts. The cross member brace can now be removed after the remaining 2 bolts in the middle have been removed.
You will not be re-using this on the new Tubular K-member application.
The steering components will be removed, supported and then re-assembled onto the new K-member. Start by removing the lock bolt on the shaft that connect the steering wheel to the steering box. This is located between the K-member and the motor mount on the drivers side of the vehicle. With the bolt removed, you will be able to slide the coupler towards the firewall, it will recede inside the outer member of the connector shaft. Push the 2 shafts together as far as possible to give you as much room to work you can get.
The Rack and Pinion assembly is mounted to the K-member with 2 studs with 4 bushings.
You may have to restrain the stud with a wrench on the end of the stud. Completely remove the 2 nuts and put in the bolt container. You will not re-use these nuts, nor will we re-use the bushing. New bushing are supplied with the Tubular K-member.
The Rack and Pinion assembly is fairly heavy, but it can be tied to the sway bar with good quality pull ties or tarp straps. You will probably require a pry bar to remove the assembly from the studs, there is just enough room.
Remove the 2 motor mount bolts and lift the motor about 2 inches, allowing it to pivot on the transmission cross-member. This will give us enough room to remove the K-member.
Take a floor jack with a 2x4 just long enough to span the distance to the A-Arms. Put enough pressure on the jack to support the K-Member and remove all of the bolts that are holding the K-member in place. Slowly release the pressure on the jack and lower the K-Member. Check to make sure that nothing is getting hung up on the K-member as it is lowering and when completely down, pull it out from under the car.
Take a few minutes to do a little house keeping around the attachment points of the OEM K-member.
Take a few minutes to compare the differences between the OEM version and the new AJE Racing Tubular K-member.
There is no time like the present, line up the AJE Racing Tubular K-member under the original location and position the jack in a similar manner. Lift the new Tubular K-member into place and replace the bolts at the same time installing the upper spring bucket. Start with the bolt on the drivers side first, then do the front passenger side. After these 2 bolts are in, they basically line up the new K-member as close to the OEM location as possible.
With the new Tubular member in place and squared up, add the supplied A-arms to the K-member.
Tightening of the A-Arms is very specific according to the instructions supplied by AJE Racing. Refer to their directions for this procedure. Once the A-arms have been installed per instructions, can install the spindle assembly onto the ball joint. Tighten the ball joint up with an impact wrench until the spindle is seated onto the taper of the ball joint. Install the appropriate spring in the lower A-arm assembly. With the floor jack placed under the A-arm spring bucket, rotate the top of the spring in towards the engine and align it with the upper spring bucket. Depend on whether you have lowering springs or stock, you may need to use a spring compression tool. Balance the alignment of the spring around the center alignment ring and compress the A-arm upwards with the floor jack. Raise the A-arm until the spindle assembly lines up with the strut and install the two bolts that hold the strut securely to the spindle assembly.
We can now start to re-assembly the left and right wheel assemblies starting with the connector links for the sway bar. Remove the connector links from the OEM K-member, salvaging all of the washers and rubber spacers. I had to interject (not show in photo) a reverse bend into our connector rods. The Tubular K-member is forward of the stock location, putting it closer to the sway bar. Installing the connector links without a reverse bend in them will a binding situation as they will be angle back too far. This condition would be made even worse as the suspension is compressed.
Lower the floor jack, and release all of the pressure on the bottom of the A-arm. Check all aspect of the spring installation and ensure that it is properly aligned and contained in the spring buckets. Repeat the same procedure for the opposite side of the car. Take some measurements vertically to ensure that you have good solid geometry to move forward with, if any adjustment are required, make them now before full assembly. Once you have verified a good fitment, re-install the rotors onto the spindle assembly.
Install the Rack and Pinion assembly to the new mount points on the Tubular K-member. Visually line up the rotors longitudinally with the car and make some minor adjustments to the steering tie-rods. The Tubular K-member move the front suspension geometry forward by a couple of inches, this directly affect the tie-rods. Tighten the castle nut on the tie-rods with and impact, ensuring that you have properly seated the tapers on the tie-rods to the ball joint. Install the cotter pins to lock the tie-rods in place.
Lower the sway bar onto both connector links at the same time, you may need some help to alignment them at the same time. Install the washers and spacers just as they came off and tighten them up.
Re-connect the steering shaft to the Rack and Pinion assembly. Re-install the locking bolt to retain the shaft to the assembly and tighten.
Re-install the calipers to both sides of the vehicle in the reverse order that you removed them and ensure that everything has been tightened properly. Add the wheels to your list and torque the lug nuts.
If you have adjusted your tie-rods appropriately you should be fine to drive the car a little until you get it properly aligned.
There you have it, you have shed approximately 60 pounds and have tightened up the front end of you Mustang.
Thanks to AJE Racing for producing a quality product for the Mustang market place.